Shoe sewing machine



A. BATES ET AL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 12, 1953 May 21, 1935.

I Sheets- Sheet 1 33 7 o o 1 9 89* Q 2 May 21, 1935. A. BATES ET AL2,002,136

- I SHOE .SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 12, 1935 s Sheets- Sheet 2 May 21,1935. A. BATES ET AL 2,002,136

SHOE SEWING MACHINE 3 Sheets-Shegt 3 Patented May 21, 1935 v t c UNITEDSTATES PATENTOFFICE snon SEWING meme Arthur Bates and Frank ColemanChoice, Leicester, England, as'signor's 'toUnited Shoe MachineryCorporation, Paterson, N, J., a corporation of New Jersey ApplicationSeptember 12, 1933, Serial No. 689,697

In-Great Britain October 21, 1932 20 Claims. (01,12-6) This invention isconcerned 7 .with improvetual y able to grip t e upp in thiS localityments in or relating to shoe sewing machines-and if the marginal portionof the upper is sufiihas particular reference to inseam sewing macientlyupstanding in this locality to enable the .chmes such as are used in themanufacture of gripper .to seize it) there arises a danger that weltedshoes or turn shoes. 7 the heightwisetension away from the insole ex- V5 In the application for United States Patent erted oncthe upper byihepp may lift the Serial No. 325,839, filed December 13, 1928, on enan e;lw ichfl'w inserted during the which has been granted Patent 1,966,479,p i l seat ins'op i held the heel .July 17, 1934, there is disclosed aninseam sewing end. of theupper in lasted position close to the ,10machine having a gripper device which acts to heel b east line,awayfrom' the insole and thus 10 seize successively marginal portions ofthe upper disturb to some eXtent th position of the 01 a shoe on a lastand to pull the said portions ready lastedfupn heelwaiid Qfi thePOSitiOII vheightwise of the last and inwardly over an inwhere thesewing operation commences. A simisole on the last bottom, the saidgripper moving, lar danger ex sts wh the Combined Sewing and a it eXert$its p ll on a marginal portion of lasting operation is drawing to aconclusion 15 the upper, towards the needle from a position a ong theopposite side of the shoe close to the spaced to one side thereof inorder that the porh i r h t tion of the upper which it grips shall besewn The ie sl the Present invention are to to the insole lip while itis actually held under improve t e con n and Operation f the tensionclose to the needle by the gripper and to gripper deviee d sclos thePrior application 20 assist a channel guide of the machine to feed n a;manner to v o e the above and other the work step by step through themachine, disadvantages and to render the gripper device The gripperdevice disclosed in said prior apmore compact and mo e d yadjustableplication has been found in practice to operate In anillustrative embodiment of t Present very satisfactorily'butnevertheless has shown invention hereinafter, described a Sh pp 25 vitself capable of improvement in various ways. gripper similar to thatdisclosed in the said prior For example the mechanismdisclosed in thesaid application has its upper tensioning movements prior applicationfor-imparting to the gripper impartedto it'through a short swinginglever its upper-pulling movements was found to be which is coupled to aneccentric which also serves somewhat cumbersome and the mechanism for toactuate a ratchet and cam device by which the 30 opening and closing thegripper jaws was found gripperl is rendered inoperative while workingnot to offer convenient adjustment for regulataround the toe end of ashoe and is also prevented ing the extent to which the gripper Jawsopened from moving from an inoperative position into and closed inaccordance with the thickness of upper-seizing "positionlwhen. theinseam sewing the upper materials of diflerent shoes. 9 operationfon ashoe'is commenced in the waist of In the machine disclosed in the saidprior apthe shoeonone side until apredetermined number plication aratchet wheel and eccentric device of stitches havebeen made and theheel breast is provided for causing the gripper to be raised line of theshoe has been fed so far away from to and maintained in such a positionwhen workthe position of the gripper in the machine that 40 ing aroundthe toe end of a shoe, the toe and there will be little or no tendencyfor the gripper, 40 heel end portions of the upper of which have vwhenit, comes into operation and exerts aheightalready been lasted over thelast and the end wise pull on the upper, to disturb the position ofportion of which has been trimmed approximatethe'alrea'dy lastedheelseat portion of the upper 1y to the height of the insole lipbeforethe shoe on that side of the shoe. The said ratchet and is presented tothe inseamsewing machine, that cam device also serves to lift thegripper to and 45 it cannot descend far enough to abut against retain itin an inoperative position at a prethe upper materials around the toeend and candetermined time before the sewing reaches the not thereforehinder the smooth progress of the heel breast lineon the second side ofthe shoe so inseam sewing operation around this portion of that thegripper shall not seize the upper close to ,0 the shoe. With thearrangement described in the heel breast line on the second side of theshoe 1 the prior application however the gripper is lowand thereforedisturb the position of the already cred into its operative position togrip a portion lasted heelseat portion of the upper at that side. of theupper materials just toeward of the heel As hereinafter described thesaid ratchet and breast line immediately the sewing operation cam deviceis adjustable so that the precise time commences on a shoe and if th grpper is acat which the gripper is allowed to come into operation on theupper when starting sewing may be varied to suit varying conditions inthe work. Further in the same illustrative embodiment means are providedwhereby the operator can accurately re-position (i. e. re-time) the saidratchet and cam device to cause the gripper to be lifted out ofoperative position at the correct time if he has to repeat the sewingoperation along a part of the shoe, due for example to a thread breakageafter starting sewing and before the toe end is reached.

In order that the present invention may be more fully understood and itsseveral features appreciated the illustrative embodiment 'afore-,mentioned will now be described with reference to the accompanyingdrawings.

In the drawings, V a

Figure 1 is a right hand side elevationof the head of the illustrativeembodiment; a

Figure 2 is a right hand side elevation of tain parts seen in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a front elevation showing part of certhe head;

Figure 4 is a right hand side elevation of certain parts seen in Figure1; V

Figure 5 is a right hand side elevation, on an enlarged scale of certainparts of the illustrative embodiment; and

Figure 6 is an isometric View of certain parts seen in Figure 5. h

The said illustrative embodiment will be considered as embodied in aninseam sewing machine which, except that it hasno work-piercing awl, isgenerally similar to that described in United States Letters Patent toEppler, No. 1,108,560

granted August 25, 1914. The illustrative machine will beconsidered asbeing arranged to operate on welted shoes, the toe and heel end portionsof which have previously been'lasted prior to their presentation to themachine and the upper materials of which around the toe end have beentrimmed away substantially to the height of the insole lip on theinsole. The machine comprises a curved hooked needle I', a loop'er 3,(Figure 3) atake up 5 and other instrumentalities which co-operate in awell known manner to form the stitches of a chain-stitch seam and isfurther provided, as is thelmachine disclosed in the applicationaforementioned, with a" lasting gripper indicated generally at 1(similar in construction and function to that described in thatspecification) which is adaptedto operate in time relation to the sewinginstrumentalities'to last side portions of a shoe upper before the saidportions of the upper and welt are sewn by the machine to the insole.The lasting gripper is positioned to the right of the needle, looking atthe machine from the front as shown in Figure3 and is supported at itsupper end in aball joint in theforward end of an updraw lever 9 which ispivoted on a horizontal and laterally extending stud secured on a fixedportion of the machine frame and which is curved laterally between itspivot H and its forward end towards the needle position to allow thejaws l3, l5 at the lower end of the gripper to lie closer to the sewingpoint than they otherwise would. As is also the case in thegripperarrangement disclosed in the prior specification last mentionedthe jaws 'of the gripper are likewise curved towards the needle, lookingat the machine from the front, for a similar purpose. I

Theupdraw lever B of the present illustrative embodiment is considerablyshorter than that referred to in Patent No. 1,966379' and the means forimparting to it its falling and rising movements to cause the gripper todescend towards and to rise away from the shoe are somewhat differentfrom those described for operating the updraw lever referred to in thatspecification.

V The rear end of the updraw lever 9 of the present illustrativeembodiment has freely pivoted in it a horizontal pin ll which hassecured upon its right hand end close against the right hand side of thelever S a short downwardly and rearwardly extending sleeve I9. Adownwardly and rearwardly extending updraw rod 2| passes through thesaid sleeve it its upper end having pinned to it just above the saidsleeve a hand nut 23 by which the rod may be rotated. The down- 7 wardlyand rearwardly extending sleeve 9 has a second and rotatable sleevemember 25 threaded "onto its lower end through which the updraw rod 2|also passes and a spring 21 resting at its lower end on the lower end ofthe second sleeve member 25 encircles the updraw rod and bears "at itsupper end against a collar fixed to the upthe rod and adjustablyconnected at its lower end with a bifurcated lever 3| freely mounted ona transversely extending shaft 33 and arranged to be recked by aneccentric 35 on the main shaft 3-? of the machine (which extends fromleft toright i.' e. transversely of the machine) in a manner hereinafterdescribed. The connection between the biiurcated lever 3| and theeccentric 35 on the main shaft is such that although the cocentric canrock the bifurcated lever rearwardly positively a given amount to impartthe desired updraw movement to the gripper, the bifurcated lever can berocked still further by means hereinafter described to cause the gripperto rise to and be maintained in a higher inoperative position in spiteof the action of the eccentric. For this purpose the eccentric strap: 39of the said eccentric has a pair of parallel bores 4|, 43 extendingrearwardly'in a boss 4-5 formed on it and in the bore 4| is secured ashort rod 4'! which enters into a bore 39 in a socket 5| which isconnected at its outer end by a pivot 53, to the bifurcated lever 3!. Asecond short rod 55 is threaded in the second bore 53 in the boss "65and passes outwardly through a downwardly projecting lug 51 formed onthe socket 5| which lug normally rests on a face of the boss 45. Aspring 59 is located between a collar 6| on the outer end of the rod 55and the lug 57 and urges the socket 5| towards the eccentric normally tomaintain the lug 51 against the face on the boss 45. The adjustableconnection between the said coupling member 29 and the bifurcated lever3| comprises a transversely extending pin 63 extending through the lowerend of the coupling member, the opposite ends of which pin extendthrough slots 65 in the bifurcated members of the bifurcated lever 3!which lie on opposite sides of the said coupling member. The said slotsin the bifurcated member, although straight, are substantiallytangential about the axis of the pin I! in the rear aforesaid, a ratchetand eccentric device is prolever in any position towhich it may havebeen adjusted along the said slots. This adjustable connection betweenthe coupling member and'the bifurcated lever enables the extent of thegripper lifting stroke imparted to the updraw lever by the bifurcatedlever, as the latter is rocked by its eccentric, to be varied by theoperator to suit the varying abilities to stretch of the upper materialsof different shoes.

A spring-pressed striker or abutment 68 (Figure 4) together with athreaded sleeve nut 69 for varyingthe compression of a. spring II-housed between a shoulder on the striker 68 and the lower end of the nut69 are housed in an upwardly extending threaded sleeve 73whichisthreaded into the forward end-of a gripper closing lever I5 andwhich may be rotated to adjust the heightwise position of'the lower.face of the striker' 68 with whichthe upper end of the jaw-closing rodor plunger 'i'i -is maintained incontact by springs I9. By varying theheightwise position of the strikerfifi, and therefore varying theheightwise position of thejaw-closi'ng plunger 17, the extent to whichthe gripper jaws are allowed to open when the striker rises and theextent to which they are closedwhen the striker descends may be variedto suit different thicknesses of'upper materials. The'jaw-closing'plunger 11 is connected to the gripper jaws their closing movements inamanner similar tothat described with reference to the lever referred toas I54 in the prior patent. A manually adjustable connection is provided'in the present illustrative embodiment between the gripper closinglever 15 and the said cam-actuated lever 8'! "-to allow the gripper jawsto be opened by the operator at any time after they have been closedupon the work and this adjustable connection' is more compact and moreeasily operable than that described for the same purpose in Patent No.1,966,47 9. In the present illustrative example the connection betweenthe rear end of the gripper closing lever and the said cam-actuatedlever comprises a toggle having two short links 89 and 9| (see Fig. 4)The upper end of the link 89 is pivotally connected to the rear end ofthe gripper closing lever and the lower end of the link 9| is pivotallyconnected to the forwardend of the carn actuated lever 81. A rearwardlyextending spring as is connected to the link 9| and tends to straightenthe toggle rearwardly. Co-operating shoulders 95, ill are'provided onthe forward sides of the toggle links 89; SI and normally maintain thetoggle links in straightened condition against the action of the saidspring '93. 'The lower toggle link Ell has'a curved handle 99secured toit which extends upwardly and forwardly to a convenient position for theoperator above the rear end of the gripperclosing lever.

By pulling the said handle forwardly the operator can break the toggleabout its knuckle IOI in a forward direction thus pulling down the rearend of the gripping closing lever I5 and allowing the gripper jawstoopen'under the action of the springs '59 which maintain the jawclosing plunger H in engagement with the striker 6T.

In the machine disclosed'in Patent No. 1,966,479

side of the ratchet wheel I83. extending arm of the lever I07 has alsosecured vided for automatically lifting the gripper to and retain it insuch an elevated position when sewing around the toe end of a shoe thatthe gripper cannot engage the upper materials around this portion.Thesaid ratchet and eccentric device also operates .to lower the gripperonce more to operative position when the sewing around the toe end hasbeen completed and is described in the said patent as being connected tothe updraw lever III of the gripper to control the gripper in the mannerjust described by a rocking lever 220 and a slotted link ice of theapplication.

In the present illustrative embodiment a ratchet and cam device issubstituted for the ratchet and eccentric device of the machinedisclosed in'Patent No. 1,966,479 and this ratchet and cam device actsas hereinafter described upon the bifurcated lever 3I to which the rearend of the updraw rod 2| is connected torock the said bifurcated leverrearwardly, to raise the gripper to such an elevated position whenworking around the toe end of the shoe that the gripper is preventedfrom engaging or abutting against the, upper materials. The cam of thesaid ratchet and cam device also provides means whereby the gripper is,in the manner hereinafter described, prevented from coming intooperative position to operate on a shoe at the commencement of thesewing operation until a predetermined number of stitches have been sewn.and may be lifted to an inoperative position just before the conclusionof the sewing operation.

The said ratchet and cam device comprises a ratchet wheel I03 secured toa rotatable and transversely extending shaft I mounted in fixed bearingsbelow the level of the shaft 33 on which the bifurcatedlever 3! ismounted and slightly forwardly of the latter. A substantially horizontaland forwardly and rearwardly extending lever I0! is freely pivoted onthe ratchet wheel shaft I 05 and is connected at its forward end to thelower end of an upwardly extending link I09 which is connected at itsupper end by a pin III to the eccentric strap 39 which surrounds theeccentric 35 which rocks the bifurcated lever 3I to impart to thegripperits rising and falling movements. The lever ID! has secured to itsforwardly extending arm a short pin I I3 which extends horizontally tothe left and has freely pivoted on it an upwardly extending pawl H5which is urged by a spring I I1 into engagementwith the teeth on theforward The rearwardly to it at its rear-endon a pin MS a downwardlyextending pawl I2I which is urged forwardly by a curved leaf spring 123into engagement with the teeth on the rear side of the ratchet wheel.The teeth on the said ratchet are so directed as shown in Figure 6 andthe stroke of the lever IElI which carries the pawls is such that duringthe formation of each stitch made by the machine the ratchet wheel will,except when the pawls are cut out of action as hereinafter described,rotate in a clockwise direction looked at from the right of the -machinea distance equal to that between successive teeth on the wheel.

A third and somewhat narrower pawl l25 secured to a fixed part of themachine engages with the teeth on the ratchet wheel to prevent movementof the ratchet wheel in the reverse direction. The pawl I25 is mountedon an eccentric pin I21 which can be rotated to adjust the setting ofthe pawl heightwise of the ratchet wheel to enable the pawl to engagesnugly behind the successive teeth on the ratchet wheel. The ratchetwheel has a cam disc Ill) I29 rigidly secured to it on its right handside by a screw and slot connection (not shown) which allows the cam tobe adjusted relatively to the ratchet wheel if necessary. This cam dischas formed upon its edge a relatively large hump I3I the greater portionof which extends around the cam concentrically with the axis of theshaft I05 through about eighty degrees and a relatively small hump I33positioned'almost but not quite diametrically opposite the large humpand extending around the cam also concentrically with the axis of theshaft H15 through some thirteen degrees. The said ratchet wheel hassecured to its left handface two small shrouding plates I35, I31 whichare each of a width (considered around the periphery of the ratchetwheel) equal to the length of two of the teeth on the ratchet wheel andextend radially of the ratchet wheel with their outer edges lying on alevel with the topsof the teeth on the ratchet wheel to shroud adjacentteeth from the action of the pawl H5. One of the said plates i. e. theplate.I35 lies opposite the rear end of the small hump 33 on the saidcam (considered in the direction of rotation of the cam) and the otherplate I31 lies about twenty eight degrees behind the plate I35 alsoconsidered in the direction of rotation of the cam. Each plate serves at.times and in the manner hereinafter indicated to prevent rotation ofthe ratchet wheel by the pawl H5. A small cam lever 39 is arranged to beactuated by the said cam disc I29 to raise the gripper to an inoperativeposition at the appropriate times and this cam lever is freely rotatableon the shaft'33 on which'the bifurcated lever Si is mounted. The smallcam lever has a short forwardly extending arm which carries a cam roll I4| at its end which rests upon the periphery of the cam disc I29. Ashort upwardly extending arm I43 of the said lever I39 has secured to itby a slot and bolt connection an arm I45 which is also freely mounted onthe shaft 33 and has a stop-face I4! formed on it at its rear with whichstop-face a stud M9 on the forward side of the bifurcated lever 31 comesinto contact when the lever3I has been swung forwardly by its eccentric35 as far forwardly as possible. The pawl I2I which is carried by therear end of the lever IN is arranged 'to be maintained normally out ofengagement with the ratchet wheel by a shielding plate I5I which liesbetween the pawl and the ratchet wheel and abuts against the pawl. Thesaid shielding plate comprises a thin blade-like member which is securedat its upper end to a laterally extending boss projecting from the lefthand side of a curved lever E53 which is freely pivoted on the shaft lThe lever I53 is normally maintained in such a position that theshielding plate I5I maintains the pawl l2 I' out of contact with theratchet wheel by a trip rod I which extends downwardly through anopening in the end of the lever I53 is coupled at its lower end to abell crank lever which is arranged to be rocked about a transversehorizontal pivot by rearward movement of a knee-operated push rod. Arearward movement of this push rod causes the trip rod I55 to rock thecurved lever I53 carrying the shielding plate 951 in a counter-clockwisedirection looked at from the right of the machine and thus to lift theshielding plate from between the said pawl and the ratchet wheel. 1

The action of the ratchet and cam device will now be described. When themachine is at rest the cam roll I 4| on the small cam lever I 39 isresting upon the small hump I33 on the cam disc I29 near the rear end ofthe hump considered in the direction of its rotation, the pawl I I5resting, as shown in Figures 5 and 6, out of contact with the ratchetteeth, on the outer edge of the small plate I31.

The fact that the cam roll MI is resting at this time on the small humpcauses the stop face I4! at the upper end of the arm I45 to occupy arearward position in moving to which it will have swung the bifurcatedlever 3| further rearwardly than it could be moved by its eccentric 35and thus will have moved the gripper to a position in which it is raisedabove the work sofar that it cannot, until it'has been allowed todescend, engage the upper of a shoe presented to the machine. Thegripper jaws I3, I5 will also be closed at this time. The shieldingplate I5I will at this time be maintaining the pawl I2I on the rear endof the lever IDI out of contact with the ratchet wheel, a spring I52serving normally to swing the rear end or the lever I53 downwardly forthis purpose until a boss I54 on its lower portion is arrested bycontact with a fixed face I55 on the machine. Before the operatorcommences the inseam sewing operation on a shoe, assumed to be I ofaverage size, presented to the machine he urges the knee-operated pushrod aforementioned rearwardly and thus swings the lever I 53 against theaction of the spring I52 to withdraw the shielding plate I5! upwardlythus allowing the pawl I 2I 'under the action of the spring I23 to movethe ratchet wheel one step forwardly in a clockwise direction looked atfrom the right of the machine to carry the small shrouding plate I31, onwhich the other pawl Il5 carried by the lever I61 rests, upwardly awayfrom beneath the said pawl to allow that pawl to become operative torotate the ratchet wheel in a step by step manner. When the operator haspushed the knee-operated push rod rearwardly and thus withdrawn theshielding plate I5I to an inoperative position it is retained, in saidposition until the pawl I2I at the rear end of the lever It! hasactually rotated the ratchet wheel one step, by a spring tooth I51carried by the lever I53 on which the shielding plate I5! is carried,which spring tooth engages with the teeth on the ratchet wheel. As theratchet wheel is rotated through one step after the shielding plate I5!has been-withdrawn upwardly, the lever I 53 which carries theshieldingplate and spring tooth I5! is caused to rock downwardly incompany with the ratchet wheel (through the action of the spring I52)until the shielding plate is ready once more to abut against the pawlI2I, as the latter is moved upwardly to its initial position afterhaving moved the'ratchet wheel through one step, to lift the said pawlout of engagement with the ratchet wheel.

Having urged the said knee-operated push rod rearwardly the operatorpresents a shoe to the machine with its toe end pointing towards theright'and the waist portion of the shoe near to the heel breast lineopposite the needle I and after having positioned the channel guide I58properly in the channel in the insole, then depresses the startingtreadle of the machine. The inseam sewing operation then commences andproceeds along the waist of the shoe towards the toe end. When themachine shaft has started to rotate, lever I ll? which carries the pawlsH5, I2I will be rocked upwardly and downwardly once in every machinecycle and, since the shielding plate I! will already have beenwithdrawn-upwardly to an inoperative position by the knee-operated pushrod, the first rocking movement of the lever I31 which takes place; in aclockwise direction looked at from the right of the machine willcausethe pawl I2 I at the rear end of the lever to rotate the ratchet wheelone step in clockwise direction looked at from the right. As thisoccurs, the knee-operated; push rod may be released and the shieldingplate I5I once more descends to its operative position as above statedand separates the pawl I2I from the ratchet wheel as the lever' lfl1swings upwardly once more. As also hereinbefore stated the movement ofthe ratchet wheel imparted to it by the pawl I 2i causes theshrouding-plate I31 on which'the pawl I I5 on the lever I01 rests, tomove upwardly away from beneath the pawl H5 and therefore allows thesaid pawl operative position.

to ride into engagement with the ratchet teeth to rotate the ratchetwheel on further swinging movement of the said lever I01. The position,in

the stopping position of the machine, of the cam roll I 4! ,on the smallhump I33 of the cam I29 is such-that, through the action of certainadjustable cam-roll controlling means hereinafter described, the rollwill only have descended upon a lower;,concentric part of the cam whenthe machine has made apredetermined number (say three) of stitches andthe heel portion of the shoe has been'moved by the channel guide I58 ofthe machine (which acts, as in the prior applicationreferred to, as awork feeding-member) away from the needle through a similar number ofstitch lengths. As the cam roll MI descends from the small hump in themanner hereinafter described, the stopface I41, at the upper end of theupwardly extending arm I45 secured to the small cam lever I39 will moveforwardly thus allowing the spring 59 which forms part of the connectionbetween the eccentric strap 39 on the main shaft and the bifurcatedlever 3| to which theupdraw'rocl 2| is, connected to urgethe bifurcatedlever forwardly, to lower the gripper into Immediately this has oecurred the gripper (the, laws I3 and I5 of which are continuouslyopened and closed when the machine is in operation even whenthegripperis in its raised inoperative position) commences to operate on theupstanding margin of the shoe upingas it does so towards the needle toassist the channel guide to feed the work through the machine'and topresent the portion of the upper which it engagesstill in tensionedcondition, to the needle to be sewn thereby to the insole lip. Thegripper continues in operation operating prior to each stitch to pull aportion of theupper over the last in the manner described and theratchet wheel continues to move in a stepwise manner at each cycle ofthe maclnne. whilethe sewing operation continues along theside of theshoe, towards the toe end thereof; When the end of the toe cap line onthat-side of the shoe approaches the needle (or when, in the case of ashoe having no toe cap, the position onthe shoe where the end of the toe.cap line would lie ifthe shoewas a capped shoeapproaches the needle)the large hump I3 I on the cam comes beneath the cam roll I41 on thesmall cam lever l39 and once more rocksthe latter in a clockwise direc--tion looked at fromthe right and once more causes the stop-faces I41 atthe upper end of the arm- I45 to rock the bifurcated lever 3| rearwardlyagainst the action of the spring 59 and thereby to-raise the gripperonce more to its inoperative position. The sewing operation around thetoe end of the shoe thereafter continues, while the cam roll I ridesalong the concentric portion ofthe large hump I3I, the gripper beingprevented from coming into contact with the work. As-the sewing aroundthe toe end progresses the tratchet wheel I03 continues to move inastepwise manner until after about fifteen or sixteen stitches havebeenmade (when the stitching will have been carried out around theextreme toe end and is approaching'the toe cap line on the opposite sideof the shoe) the cam roll I 4| starts to fall slowly along a gentlysloping side of the large cam hump I 3| towards a concentric portionthereof of smaller radius. As the cam roll rides down the said faceduring the formation of successive stitches, near the tip line, thegripper is allowed (by the forward movement of the stop face I41)gradually to come into operation until, when the toe cap line positionon the secondside of the shoe has just been passed, the gripper is oncemore fully in operation imparting its heightwise and inwardly directedpulls to the upper margin. The sewing continues along this side of theshoe towards the :heelbreast line and the ratchet wheel I03 andcam I29continue to rotate in a stepwise manner until about when the ball of theshoe (the term ball being herein used as meaning that region oneitherside of a shoe where the forepart merges into the waist) isreached the shrouding plate I35 on the ratchet wheel which lies oppositethe rear end of the small hump I 33 on the cam I29 (considered in thedirection of rotationof the latter) comes beneath the pawl I I5 onthelever I01 and, since the pawl I2I on the rearwardlyextending arm of thesaid lever is maintained out of engagement with the ratchet teeth atthis time by its shielding plate I51, no further rotation of the ratchetwheel and cam takes places for the time being. The cam roll I4l on thesmall cam lever. I39 lies, when the rotation ofthecam ceases, close .tothe forward side of the small hump I33 on the cam and is ready, when thecam once more starts to rotate, to ride up the small cam hump and raisethe gripper once more to its inoperative position. The sewing along thesecond side of the shoe continues towards the heel breast line and whenthe sewing has proceeded to within about a predetermined number ofstitch lengths from the point near the heel breast line where the sewingis to finish, the operator urges the knee operated push rod rearwardlyonce more and thus withdraws the shielding plate I5I upwardly to allowthe pawl I2! to engage the ratchet wheel. When this has been effectedthe next rotation of the eccentric 35 causes the ratchet wheel to rotateone step and thus to cause the small cam hump I33 to ride somewhatbeneath the cam roll I4I on the small cam lever I39 and also thus tocause the gripper to be lifted once more somewhat towards itsinoperative position while the sewing operation continues. The cam rollrides along the said hump and the gripper will be completely raisedto.its inoperative position as-the ratchet wheel makes a further stepand remains raised while as the ratchetwheel makes three still furthersteps (and the machine therefore makes three still furtherstitches) andat the end of this time, while the cam roll is; still resting on thesmall cam hump and the gripper is still raised in its inoperativeposition the shrouding plate I31 on the ratchet disc which is spacedrearwardly away from the small hump on the cam (considered in thedirection ofrotation of the dam) will have lifted the pawl H on thelever I01 out of engagement with the ratchet teeth and the ratchet wheeland cam therefore come to rest. Ifthe sewing operation on the shoe hasnot concluded by this time it is continued while the gripper remainsinoperative and the machine comes to rest with the gripper still raisedin its inoperative position and its jaws closed. Thus, as hereinbeforedescribed, the machine is provided with means 4 controlled by theoperator whereby the gripper is delayed from coming into operation tolast a shoe until several stitches have first been sewn, is lifted outof operation while sewing around the toe end and may be lifted out ofoperation at an appropriate time before thesewing operation on the shoeis concluded. r

If the operator should desire for any reason to use the machine purelyas an inseam sewing machine (for example if he desires to sew the inseamof a shoe which has been completely lasted prior to its being presentedto the machine) without allowing the gripper to exercise any lastingaction on the shoe he can do so by omitting'to urge the knee operatedpush rod rearwardly and thereby we putting the ratchet driving meansinto operation.

The adjustable means aforesaid for controlling the time at which the camroll I4I on the small cam lever I39 descends from the small hump I33 onthe cam after commencing to sew a shoe comprises a depending latch armI59 which is freely pivoted at its upper end ona horizontal pivot pinI3I which extends in a direction from left to right of the machine.Just-above its lower end the latch arm is provided on'its forward sidewith a forwardly projecting-shoulder I63 which is arranged, when thegripper is in its inoperative position, to engage the underside of a pinI65,

' of square section, which is formed as'an extension of the pin on whichthe cam roll MI of the small cam lever I39is mounted." Thus the saidlatch arm prevents the cam roll from descending along the sloping sideof the small hump to allow the' gripper to come intooperation until thelatch arm has been's'wung away out of engagement with the pivot pin forthe cam roll.

The said latch arm is spaced a short distance away from the right handface of the cam and is provided along its lower end with a straight slotI61 which is tangential about the pivot pin I9I on' which the arm ismounted. A horizontal pin I69 which'extends through theslot I61 to a thepin I69 and the said pins I13, I15 are of such length that they comeinto contact, in turn, as the cam rotates with the forward face of thepin I69 and act to rock the latching arm rearwardlyof the machine torelease it fromengagement'with the pivot pin I65 for the cam roll I4! onthe small cam lever I39. The-two pins I13, I15 on the cam are arrangeddiametrically opposite each other, the one I13 being arranged somewhatrearward (considered in the direction of rotation of the cam) of therear end of the small hump I33 on the cam and the other I15 beingarranged somewhat forwardly of the rear end of the concentric face onthe large hump I3I on the cam.

The pins I13, I15 on the cam I29 co-operate with the pin I89 on thelower end of the latch arm in a manner now to be described. When themachine is in its position of rest the shoulder I 63 on the latch armI59 will lie beneath, and in engagement with, the pin I95 of the camroll I4I on the small cam lever I39 and the cam roll will, ashereinbefore stated, he on the small cam hump I33 near to its rear endconsidered in the direction of rotation of the cam. Assuming the pin IE9at the lower end of the latch arm to be secured in position at theforward end of the slot I61 (as shown in Figure 5) in the latch arm andthe knee-operated push rod to have been urged rearwardly before thestarting treadle of the machine is tripped, the ratchet wheel will startto rotatein a stepwise manner as previously described immediately thesewing operation commences and the pin I13 which is secured to the camjust rearward of the small cam hump (considered in the direction ofrotation of the cam) will abut against the forward face of the pin I69which is secured to the latch arm immediately the rotation of theratchet and cam commences. After the ratchet wheel and cam have madethree stepwise movements in the manner described the latch arm will havebeen rocked so far rearwardly by the pin I13 on the cam that it willrelease the cam roll I4! on the small cam lever I39 and the latter willtherefore be swung downwardly by the spring 59 (the small cam hump I33on the'cam having already passed away from under the roll) to allow thegripper to descend into operative position to commence its lastingoperations on the shoe. On continued rotation of the cam I29 the pin I13which abuts against the pin I69 on the latch arm will have swung thelatter so far rearwardly and upwardly that it can ride beneath the pinI69 on the latch arm I59 out of contact with it thus allowing the latcharm to be swung forwardly and downwardly by a coil spring I11 ready forits shoulder I83 to engage beneath the pivot pin of the cam roll MI whenthe cam roll has once more been lifted sufficiently far by the cam I29.This will occur when the large hump I3I on the cam comes beneath theroll to lift the gripper to its inoperative position as the sewingaround the toe end of the shoe commences but the second pin I15 on thecam I29 will engage the pin I99 on the latch arm before the sewingaround the toe end is completed and will rock the latch arm rearwardlyonce more to release the cam roll and allow it to ride gently down therear face of the large hump (considered in the direction of rotation ofthe cam) without any restraining influence being exercised on the camroll by the latch arm at this time. By adjusting the pin I69 carried bythe latch arm rearwardly along its slot I61 the time at which the latcharm will be rocked rearwardly awayfr'om engagement with the cam roll I4Ijust after the sewing operation on a shoe has commenced to lower thegripper to operative position, can be delayed to enable a greater numberof stitches (for example any number up to nine) to be made along thewaist of a shoe while the gripper is maintained out of operation. Thispossibility is found to be of considerable advantage when operating forexample on shoes having heel end counters which extend further forward-1y along the waist towards the toe end than usual i ing operation hasbeen completed and the maas it is desirable, in order to avoid thepossibility of the gripper disturbing the position of the counter in theshoe, that the gripper should be delayed from coming into action untilthe sewing has progressed to a point toewardly of the the gripper can belifted out of operation before the sewing operation is concluded on 'ashoe. As however the operator can very clearly see the progress of theoperation of the-machine as it continues along the second side of thewaist towards the heel breast line and can by operat ing theknee-operated push rod at any time while sewing along the second side ofthe waist, en-

sure that the 'gripper will'be raisedto its inoperative position after afurther two stitches beyond, the point where the 'rod is actuated havebeen made, he is well able to cause the gripper,

to rise to itsinoperative position at any desired period before thesewing operation reaches the heel breast line. A friction banddevice notshown is provided continuallyto gripthe shaft I05 of the ratchet wheeland cam to prevent the ratchet wheel and cam from being rotated, by theaction of the cam roll as it rides down the rear end face of the largecam hump faster than its driving means operate it.

It occasionally happens when the inseam sewing operation on a shoe isbeing carried out by machine that the thread-breaks before the sewchineshaft makes several further revolutions before its'movement can bestopped. As described above the ratchet wheel and cam device of theillustrative machine is moved one step forward for each operation of themachine until the machine has sewn to about the ball on the second sideof the shoe and therefore if, during the sewing up to this part of ashoeby the illustrative machine, the thread breaks for example while thesewing is proceeding along the first side of the shoe towards the tipline and the machine shaft makes several further rotations before it canbe brought to rest, the ratchet wheel and cam device will by that timehave made several further steps forward beyond the position it occupiedat the instant when the thread broke. Therefore when the, shoe is oncemore presented to the machine for the sewing to recommence at thepointin the shoe where the last complete stitch was made the position of thelarge hump l3l on the cam will havebeen disturbed with regard to itsrelation'to the progress of thesewing operation, and unless corrected,would in the particular case last referred to act to lift the gripper toits inoperative position at an incorrect time (i. e. earlier than itshould) during the sewing operation. In the illustrative embodiment ofthe present invention means is provided whereby the operator can readilyreposition the ratchet wheel and cam device to its correct relation tothe progress of the sewing operation if the thread in the machine hasbroken and the sewing operation is to be restarted on any portion of theshoe. The said means comprises a chart; in the form of a. rotary discI19 (see Figures 1 and 3) on which is outlined a pattern of a shoebottom. The'said disc is positioned in clear view of the operator to theright hand side of the machine and is fixed to the forward end of ahorizontal forwardly and rearwardly extending shaft I St which ismounted in fixed bearings in a bracket secured to the right hand side ofthe imachine frame. The rearend of this shaft is coupled by bevel gears(not shownl to the transversely extending shaft 105 onwhich the ratchetwheel m3 is secured so that the disc rotates once in a counterclockwise'direction looked at from the front of the machine for everyrotation of the ratchet wheel. The outline of the pattern of the shoebottom is so positioned on the disc that it lies horizontally across thedisc with the toe end pointing towards the right when the machine isinoperative ready for a shoe to be offered to it.

In Figures 1 and 3 the machine is shown in a stitches have been madeafter the commence ment of the sewing operation. A line I83 on the saiddisc runs from a'point in the waist of the pattern close to the positionwhere the .heel breast line would lie (and corresponding to thepositio'n'on the shoe atwhich the sewing would commence) to theperiphery of the disc at the left hand side of the latter when themachine is inoperative ready'for a shoe to be presented to .it and afixed indicating pointer I85 lies opposite the periphery of the disc.Thirty-two other lines are drawn as seen in Figure 3 from points spacedapart around the pattern forwardly of the heel breast line to pointsspaced equally apart around the periphery. of the disc which latterpoints lie in turn opposite the said-pointer I85 when the sewing isbeing carried out on-parts of the shoe corresponding to those on thepattern from which the lines are respectively drawn. Thus, for example,when the sewing hasproceeded say'to a point on the shoe close to theball, the disc will have been rotated by the ratchet wheel shaft so farthat a line IS! on the disc leading to the periphery of the disc fromthe corresponding point close to the ball on the pattern lies oppositethe pointer I85 and when the sewing operation has reached the extremetoe end of the shoe a line I89 leading from the ex treme toe end of thepattern to the periphery of the disc will lie opposite the pointer I 85.If therefore the thread in the machine should break when the sewing has,for example, reached the extreme toe end of the shoe and the machine hasrun on somewhat further before it is brought to rest, the operator can,by rotating a hand wheel [9| secured to the right hand end of the shaftI05 on which the ratchet wheel is secured after the machine has come torest, rotate the ratchet wheel and cam through almost a completerevolution in the direction in which the ratchet wheel is normallyrotated until the line [89 leading from the toe end of the pattern tothe periphery of the disc lies once more opposite.

until the operator pushes rearwardly the knee operated push rod justbefore the sewing operation finishes and therefore no lines are drawn onthe said disc leading from points between the ball of the shoe and aposition somewhat forward of theheel breast line on that side of thepattern which represents the side last to be sewn in the shoe. 7 1

Since the ratchet wheel Hi3 aforesaid is rotated one step for eachrotation of the machine shaft and the cam 129 which is'secured to theratchet wheel and the chart-disc H9 are also therefore rotated one stepfor each rotation of the machine shaft it might seemnecessary that theratchet wheel should have a number of teeth which is determined inaccordance with the number of stitches to be sewn around the particularshoe to be operated upon and that the exact locations of the humps It iE33 on the cam I29 should be determined by the number of teeth on theratchet wheel. i V

In the use of the illustrative machine however it is found that, sincethe work feeding instrumentalities of the machine comprise only thechannel guide I58 whichengages the work in a non-positive manner and thegripper I which engages only the upper materials extending freely fromthe margin of the shoe bottom, the distance the work is fed betweensuccessive stitches (and therefore the number of stitches made around ashoe) may be determined largely by the feeding effort exerted on thework by the operator. It is consequently found that in practice whenusing the illustrative machine the number of stitches made around a shoeof average size, at least along the sides therech as a rule differsbut'slightly from that made when working on a larger shoe and thereforea ratchet wheel having a given number of teeth and a cam on which thehumps are disposed at predetermined distances apart may be used tooperate with substantially equal efficiency on a relatively wide rangeof shoes. The same consideration applies in the case of the chart disc.

In the machine described in Patent No. 1,966,479 a swinging fingerreferred to as Flt is provided for urging a portion of the upperinwardly over the margin of the insole before the gripper seizes thesaid portion to tension it heightwise of the last and over the margin ofthe insole. In the present illustrative embodiment however instead ofmaking use of such a finger there is provided for a similar purpose onthe forward end of the usual welt guide 983 a forwardly projecting rib494 which extends substantially horizontally across the welt guide andis turned downwardly somewhat at its forward end. The weltguide, as

is usual in machines of the type disclosed in the before mentionedpatent to Eppler, No. 1,108,560, is advanced forwardly to press againstthe work near the edge of the insole just before the needle makes itswork-penetrating stroke and the said rib on its forward end serves, asthe welt guide advances, to urge the portion of the upper which v isheld under tension by the gripper at that time inwardly over the edge ofthe insole and downwardly towards the margin of the insole andtowardsthe angle between the root of the insole lip and the body of theinsole thus exercising an additional lasting effect on the upper andassisting the gripper in holding the upper in the best position for thsewing operation.

In the gripper arrangement disclosed in Patent No. 1,966,479 theposition of the gripper jaws forwardly and rearwardly of the machine maybe adjusted by rotation of a threaded sleeve I25 of said applicationwhich forms a support for the lower end of the gripper and ismounted ona forwardly and rearwardly extending stud H22 the gripper receives itsupward and downward movements. In the present illustrative embodimentthe arrangement for supporting the lower end of the gripper is somewhatdiiferent from that described in the prior specification last mentioned.In the present illustrative embodiment the gripper is embraced at itslower end by a fork l which extends rearwardly and upwardly and isconnected at its forward end to the gripper by the pin 83 which formsthe pivotpin on which the movable gripper jaw 55 moves towards and awayfrom the fixed gripper jaw. The fork has a cylindrical stem I91extending rearwardlyfrom it which passes through a sleeve member its, ashoulder on the forward end of the stern and nut 29! on its rear endserving to hold the stem against endwise movement in the sleeve member.The said sleeve member is pivotally mounted, above the stem, on a shortshaft 203 which reciprocates with the feed slide 205 of the machine andextends from left to right of the machine and the sleeve member Hi9moves with the said shaft 283 in its reciprocations'to impart the workfeeding movements to the gripper. The sleeve and stem can therefore rockupwardly and'downwardly about the short shaft 203 in'accordance with therising and falling movements of the gripper. The said short shaft 293can be rotated by a hand piece 201 at its right hand end and the portionof the shaft on which the sleeve member I99 is mounted is formedeccentrically of the axis of the shaft so that by rotating the shaft thelower end of the gripper can readily be adjusted forwardly andrearwardly of the machine to suit the special conditions called for byshoes of different kinds.- A friction device not shown may be providedto maintain the short shaft in any angular position to which it may havebeen adjusted.

Having thus described an embodiment of the invention, what is claimedis:

l. A shoe machine having in combination, mechanism for progressivelysecuring successive portions of a shoe upper and a sole together, anupper tensioning gripper acting in time with the securing mechanism toseize successive portions of the shoe upper preparatory to each securingoperation and means driven by the securing mechanism to prevent thegrip-per from seizing the upper during a predetermined number ofsuccessive operations of the securing mechanism adjacent the heel end ofshoe and to cause the gripper to be rendered operative along otherportions of the shoe. a

' 2. A shoe machine having in combination, mechanism for progressivelysecuring successive portions of a shoe upper and a sole together, anupper tensiom'ng gripper acting in time with the securing mechanism toseize successive portions of the shoe upper preparatory to each securingoperation and means driven by the securing mechanism to prevent thegripper from seizing the upper during the first operations of thesecuring mechanism on a new shoe and to cause the gripper to be renderedoperative during other operations thereafter.

3. A shoe machine having in combination, mechanism for progressivelyseeming successive portions of a shoe upper and a sole together, anuppertensioning gripper acting in time with the securing mechanism toseize successive portions of the shoe upper preparatory to each securingoperation and means driven by the securing mechanism to cause thegripper to be rendered operative along certain portions of the shoe andby step. manner by the sewing mechanismj'a .cam connectedlto be drivenby the ratchet wheel, means operated by the cam for causing the upper,tensioning means to be held in inoperative to be prevented from seizingthe upper during the final operations of the. securing'mechanism on theshoe. 7 i,

4. A shoe machine having in combination,

mechanism for progressively securing successive portions of a shoe upperand a sole together, an upper tensioning gripper acting in time with thesecuring mechanism to seize successive portions of the shoeupperpreparato ry to each securing operation and means driven by thesecuring mechanism to prevent the gripper from seizing the upper duringthe first and final operations of the securing mechanism on a shoe andto render the gripper operative during operations of the securingmechanismbetween the times when the gripper is inoperative. I r

5. A shoe lasting and sewmg machine having in combination, uppertensioning means, sewing mechanismfor securing a'shoe upper and a soletogether, means driven by the sewing mechanism for causing the uppertensioning means to be held in inoperative position for a predeterminednumber of operations as anew seam is started and a manually operatedmember for causing the upper tensioning means to be held in inoperativeposition for an indefinite number of operations 'of the sewingmechanismf6. A shoe lasting and sewing machine having, in combinationjuppertensioning means, sewing mechanism for securing a shoe upper and a soletogether, a ratchet. wheel driven in a step by step manner by the sewingmechanism, a cam connected to be driven by theratchet wheel and meansoperated by the cam for preventing the upper tensioning means fromoperating as the sewingm chanism starts a new seam 'fand for causing theuppertensio'ning means to be rendered operative after a predeterminednumber of operations of the machine from the beginning of the seam; c

7. A shoe lasting and sewing machine having in combination, uppertensioning means, sewing mechanism for securing a shoe upper anda soletogether, a ratchet wheel driven ina step by step manner by the sewingmechanism, a camconnectedto be driven by the ratchet wheel, meansoperated by the cam for causing the upper-tensioning means to be held ininoperative position for a predetermined number of steps of-the ratchetwheel as the sewing mechanism starts a new seam, and a manually operatedmember for preventing rotation of the ratchet wheel for an indefinitenumber of operations of the sewing mechanism. I

8. A shoe lasting and sewing machine having in combination, uppertensioning means, sewing means operated bythe cam for causing the uppertensioning means to be held in inoperative position for a predeterminednumber of steps of ,the ratchet wheel as the sewing mechanism cornpletesa seam on a shoe, means for stopping rotation of the ratchet wheel foran indefinite number of operations of the sewing mechanismbefore theupper tensioning means is held inoperative and a manually operatedmember for causing the ratchet wheel to continue its rotation afterbeing stopped.

9. A shoe lasting and sewing machine having in combination, uppertensioning means, sew-,- ing mechanism for securing a shoe upper and asoletogether, a ratchet wheel driven in a step position fora'predetermined number of steps of theratchet wheel as the sewingmechanism starts anew seam and before the seamis completed,

means for holding the ratchet wheel against rotation for an indefinitenumber of operations of the sewing mechanism as the machine is startedand for stopping rotation of the ratchet wheel before the uppertensioning means is held inoperative and a manually operated member forcausing the ratchet wheel to start rotating at the beginning of a seamand to resume its rotation after being stopped by the stopping means.10. A shoelasting and sewing machine having in combination, uppertensioning means,sew-'-, ingmechanism for securing a shoe upper and asole together, a ratchet wheel driven in a step by step manner by thesewing mechanism, a cam connected to be driven by the ratchet wheel,means 'operatedby the cam for'retaining the upper tensioning means ininoperative position for a predetermined number of steps of the ratchet.wheel as the sewing mechanism starts a new seam and before the seamiscompleted, a latch for holding the retaining means .to prevent operationof the upper tensionin'gmeans and means actuated by the ratchet wheelfor releasingthe retaining means from the latch to permit the uppertensioning means to operate when the cam has continued its rotation.

11. A shoe lasting and sewing machine having in combination, uppertensioning means, sewing mechanism for securing a shoe upper and a soletogether, a ratchet wheel .driven in.a step by step manner by the sewingmechanism, acam connected to be driven by the'ratchet wheel, meansoperated by the cam for retaining the upper tensioning meansininoperative position for a predetermined number of steps of theratchet wheel. as the sewing mechanism starts anew seam and before theseam is'completed, a latch for holding the retaining means to preventoperation of the upper tensioning means, means actuated by the ratchetwheel for releasing theretaining means from the latch to permit theupper tensioning means to operate when the cam has continued itsrotation, and an adjustable device actuated bythe ratchet wheel forchanging the number of operations of the sewing mechanism in which theupper tensioning means is retained in inoperative position at thebeginning of anew seam. I i

12. A shoe lasting and sewing machine hav ing incombination, uppertensidningmeans'seW- ing'me'chanism forsecuring a shoe upper and a soletogether, a ratchetwheeldriven in a step by stepmanner by the sewingmechanism, a earn-connected tobe driven by the ratchet wheel, meansoperat'ed by the cam for retaining the upper tensioning meansininoperative position for a predetermined number of steps of theratchet wheel as the sewing mechanism starts a new seam and before theseam is completed, a latch for holding the retaining means to preventoperation of the upper tensioning means, means actuated by the ratchetwheel for releasing the retaining means from the latch to permit theupper tensioning means to operate when the cam has continued itsrotation, an adjustable device actuated by the ratchet wheel forchanging the number of operations of the sewing mech-,

:tzu'ned in'inoperatiye position at the beginning of a new seam, meansfor stopping rotation of the ratchet wheel for an indefinite number ofoperastions of the sewing mechanism before the upper tensioning meansisheld inoperative and a man nally operated member for causing the ratchetwheel to :resume its rotation after being stopped. e 513. :A'shoelasting andisewing machine having in -"combination, mechanism forprogressively securing successive portions of a shoe'upper and a soletogether, an upper tensioning gripper :acting in time with the securingmechanism to seize successive portions "of the shoe upper preparatory toeach securing operation, cam operated means for preventing the gripperfrom seizing the upper-during several of the first and final operationsof the securing mechanism on a shoe, connections for causing the cam tobe rotated by .the securing mechanism and for stopping further rotationof the cam .at the, end of a seam both before and after said operationsof the securing mechanism in which the tensioning gripper is preventedfrom seizing the upper and a manually operated member for. causing saidconnections'to' be effective in rotating the cam at the beginning ofoperations on a shoe and after the cam has been stopped before the endof the. operations.

14. A shoe lastingand sewing machine having in combination, mechanismfor progressively securing. successive portions of a shoe upper and asole together, an upper tensioning gripper actingin time with thesecuring mechanism to seize successive portionsof the shoeupperpreparatory tov each securing operation, cam operated meansfortpreventing the gripper from seizing the upper during certain of theoperations of the securing mechanism and; means operated withjthe cam.for indicating tothe operator the position in .which' the shoe should bepresented to the securing'mechanism at all times during operatiorrof themachine.

15. A shoe machine having in combination, mechanism for. progressivelysecuringportions of.-a; shoe uppervand a, sole, together, an uppertensioning gripper actinginytime with the securing. mechanism toseizesuccessive pportionsiof the shoe upper preparatory toeach securingoperation, levers foractuating thegripper, to open and close inseizingthe upper, connection between the levers comprising a pair of,alined toggle links andia handle for, moving the toggle links into andout of alignmentt prevent atwill the gripper lfrom seizingthe shoeupper.

' 16. A, shoe machines-havingv in combination, sewing mechanism forprogressively; securing suecessiveportionsfof; a shoe upper anda soletogether, an upper; tensioning gripper acting in timewith, the sewingmechanism to seizesuc cessive portions of the shoe upper preparatory toeach :sewing operation, means actuated bya predetermined number ofoperations of the sewing mechanism to prevent the gripper from seizingthe upper while sewing about the toe of the i'2,0O 2,'1 -3B :shoe and amanually operated member for causing the upper tensioning gripper to beprevented from seizing the upper at the beginning and end portions of aseam. 7

1'7. A shoe machine having in combination, sewing mechanism forprogressively securing successive portions of a shoe upper and-a soletogether, an upper tensioning gripper acting in time with the sewingmechanism to seize successive portions of the shoe upper preparatory toeachsewing operation, and means actuated after a predetermined number 0foperations of the sewing mechanism to prevent the gripper from seizingthe upper While sewing about the toe portion of thelshoe and along thebeginning and end portions of the seam.

18. A shoe machine having in combination, sewing mechanism forprogressively securing successive portions of a. shoe upper and a soletogether, an upper tensioning gripper acting in time with the sewingmechanism to seize successive portions of the shoe upper preparatory toeach sewing operation, means automatically actuated by a predeterminednumber of operations of the sewing mechanism to prevent the gripper fromseizing the upper while sewing about the toe of the shoe, a manuallyoperated member for causing the upper tensioning gripper to be preventedfrom seizing the upper at the beginning' and end portions of a seam andmeans for visibly indicating to the operator at all times the number ofoperations of the sewing mechanism remaining before the gripper isautomatically prevented from operating at the toe portion of the shoe.

1 9. A shoe lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices for progressively sewing successive portions of 'a shoeupper and sole together, an upper tensioning gripper acting in time withthe stitch-forming devices and during a portion only of the operation ofsewing a shoe, and means for indicating to the operator the properrelative position in which the shoe should be presented to the stitchforming devices at alltimes during the sewing of a shoe. 7 r

20. A shoe lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices for progressively sewing successive portions of a shoeupper and sole together, an upper tensioning gripper acting in time withthe stitch forming devices and during a portiononly of the operation ofsewing a shoe, a dial having an-outline of a shoe, a pointer cooperatingtherewith to indicate tothe'operator by the point on the outhnedesignated by, the pointer the proper relative position in which theshoe should be prcsented to the stitch forming devices at all timesduring the sewing of a shoe, and means for actuating the dial.

ARTHUR BATES. FRANK COLEMAN CHOICE.

